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Stetind – ”Main route”

Difficulty: 4+
Climbing Distance: 1 pitch and traditional climbing
First ascent:  Carl Wilhelm Rubenson, Alf Bonnevie Bryn and Ferdinand Schjelderup,1910
First winter ascent: Ralph Høibakk, Arne Næss and Kjell Friis Baastad, 1963

The sight of the knife sharp south-eastern ridge meets the hikers at the Halls Fortopp. It is a sight that takes one’s breath away. That is how Carl Hall must have felt when he made it to this  height in 1889, during his unsuccessful attempt to reach the summit. During a later attempt to conquer the peak William C. Slingsby, a British climbing pioneer, did not succeed in passing the ridge either. C. W. Rubenson was the first to overcome the last obstacle and daringly use the fingertip traverse to make his way past Mysosten.

Normalveien @ Most climbers who choose this route belay by the crux traverse and move onto the upper parts of the ridge roped together. The climbing is not technically challenging (difficulty level 2 – 3) but the exposure to height and weather is intense. Put on the climbing gear when on Halls Fortopp and follow the outcrop of rock down on the left side of the ridge. Follow the cliff ledge around the rock slab. There are two alternative routes from here: 1. Climb 2-3 metres down (more difficult) or 2. Low traverse to return to the wide ridge (easier, but more exposed). The ridge will shortly become as narrow as a blade with smooth sides. Sit down with one leg on each side of the ridge to safely move forward to the next broad section. Climb down the outcrop to a huge slab. On its right side there is a slightly difficult descent leading to a wide crevice. This is the second most difficult section of the route, after the fingertip traverse. It is difficult to find a good anchor point for this descent, but some of the boulders on the slab will suffice. Here starts the ledge system that leads forward to the fingertip traverse.

Tysfjord kommune, Boks 104, 8591 Kjøpsvik
postmottak@tysfjordkommune.no
Telefon: 75 77 55 00, Faks: 75 77 55 55
www.tysfjord.kommune.no